'I left Yorkshire 40 years ago to farm the sea - now I catch the best scallops in the world'
All David Oakes ever wanted to do was farm the sea and 40 years ago he left his native Leeds for the Isle of Skye where he now dives for some of the best scallops in the world. Catherine Scott reports.
Nestled in the dramatic landscapes of the Isle of Skye, where ancient mountains meet pristine waters, lies a remarkable story of innovation, dedication, and culinary excellence.
For nearly four decades, David Oakes has been perfecting an art form that connects the wild beauty of Scottish waters directly to the plates of discerning diners worldwide.
Established in 1988, Isle of Skye’s Sconser Scallops is the only scallop farm of its kind in Scotland to pioneer the cutting-edge husbandry of twice-dived shallow water finished king scallops.
David, originally from Leeds, moved to Skye in the early 1980s following an early career as a civil engineering diver covering the coast around the UK and Africa.
David’s passion and his love was, and always will be, the sea.
“Diving for me started in caves,” says David, “Adrenaline-filled but not profitable. A few years of engineering diving, mostly in Britain bu t some over seas was enjoyable for a while but my passion and my love was and always will be the farming of the sea.”
He noticed that scallops strived all their lives to migrate into the shallows, where the nutrients are richest, enabling them to achieve maximum fecundity, and for David, this means they grow to the best that they can be. He set about perfecting his techniques with the scallop species, Pecten maximus.”
This very special scallop is unique to Skye. It is finished and grown sustainably in Sconser Scallop’s seabed fishery in the island’s Loch Sligachan (Gaelic for ‘Place of Shells’).
"In 1987 I did some experimental spat evaluation work and then in 1988 started my scallop diving venture, “ says David.
"I initially used spat collection techniques on submerged longlines which were very effective but I believe rising sea water and temperatures made this technique unviable.
"My initial technique was to catch and cultivate from spat and then relay several order when the scallops reached 50mmplus – our two years old.
"We now use natural regeneration for the stocking of the several order. It is a truly sustainable enterprise and I am honest and hardworking as you would expected from a Yorkshireman.”
Sconser Scallops now grow some of the finest king scallops in the world. Because they are diver-harvested and delivered 'live in shell', you know that scallops from Sconser will be as nature intended, and not shrink or fill the pan with water as you cook them.
All Sconser Scallops are sold to customers on the Isle of Skye, including their longest-standing customer, The Three Chimneys at Colbost on the shores of Loch Dunvegan.
Scallops from Sconser take around seven years to grow to their full size of around 130mm.
They spend the first three to four years at a depth of 20 metres, before being moved to shallower waters to finish growing in Loch Sligachan.
The distinctive narrow mouth of Loch Sligachan increases the tidal flow and the low wave energy protects it from the elements, providing the ideal sheltered breeding ground for the scallops to grow.
This unique farming method and nutrient rich waters of Loch Sligachan give Sconser Scallops their distinctive texture, flavour and appearance. Their natural straw colour also differentiates them from their deep-water cousins.
David met his wife Alison on Skye and their son, Ben ,34, was born in Portree on Skye.
David said: “We’ve spent the last quarter of a century improving husbandry and quality to our current and consistent high standard.”
Ben supports his father David diving for scallops and delivering them to customers around the island.
Ben also has his own Skye-based business, Isle of Skye Seaweed Co, which produces a range of natural seaweed skincare and beard-care products in-house on the island using wild seaweed sustainably hand-cut using an approved and licenced method.
Ben has a degree in Sustainable Environmental Management from Edinburgh University, where he reaffirmed his passion for the marine environment.
Ben grew up loving the sea, learning to sail with the Skye Sailing Club from the age of eight.
David has been supplying The Three Chimneys for a quarter of a century this year.
Ben now personally delivers around 200-400 scallops per week to The Three Chimneys and The Three Chimneys at Talisker on the shores of Loch Harport at the height of the summer season and throughout the year, depending on availability and demand.
Paul Green, head chef at The Three Chimneys said: "The provenance of ingredients tells a story on every plate. When I work with Sconser Scallops, I'm not just preparing seafood—I'm sharing David and Ben's decades of expertise and Skye's unique marine heritage.
"When you taste a Sconser Scallop, you're experiencing something that can't be replicated anywhere else in the world. It's not just the quality—it's the story of this place, these waters, this unique environment that David has spent four decades understanding.
“I’m committed to showcasing the provenance of ingredients and following The Three Chimneys’ sustainable ethos to source high-quality produce from local suppliers on the island and wider Scottish Highlands region, including Sconser Scallops.
www.sconserscallops.co.uk