I wanted a proper meal at a nice restaurant – and Browns Leeds delivered in style

There are times when only a proper meal in a nice restaurant will do. One where the waiting staff wear starched white aprons, where the glasses sparkle and the food is immaculately presented.

And when the need arises, Browns knows exactly how to satisfy.

Based at the Light, the elegant, art deco style interior sets the tone for the evening. We’re greeted promptly and shown to a table by the window – perfect for watching the world go by.

The menu offers something for every time of day, whether it’s brunch, lunch, afternoon tea or dinner. It’s interesting to note that not only are there vegan and vegetarian options, there’s a full gluten free menu, accredited by Coeliac UK.

There’s a Taste of Summer menu with two courses for £25 or three for £30 but true to form, my guest chose from the a la carte one.

His starter of Sticky Hot Honey Chicken served with buckwheat, grains and a coriander yoghurt dip was an instant success; a satisfyingly generous chicken breast with just the right amount of seasoning to make it interesting but not overwhelming.

Since it was “showcasing the very best of the season”, I opted for the Taste of Summer menu, with a starter of Beetroot and Apple Tartare – an intriguing vegan take on steak tartare, with crispy croutons, pickled radish and candied seeds. It was tangy at one turn and creamy at another, with a horseradish twist – very beautiful and very well thought out. Oh and it tasted wonderful.

Despite there being delights such as chicken schnitzel, pan-seared duck breast and prawn and chorizo linguine on offer, my guest was seduced by the fish and chips; specifically the promise of a traditional style haddock, triple-cooked chips, pea and mint purée and tartare sauce.

Now this is a lad who knows his fish and chips so when he says it’s good, you know it’s REALLY good. (Can’t speak for the fish but the chips were magnificent, or at least the one I pinched was.)

Meanwhile my risotto verde was simply excellent. All too often risotto has a slightly mushy texture but the pumpkin seeds gave it a satisfying crunchy texture alongside glorious summer vegetables such as asparagus, courgette and peas, with a basil pesto.

Not only that, the fact the veg were green made it feel as though it was a dish of pure goodness – you feel as though a halo might well appear above your head while you’re tucking in.

Service was excellent and the bill came to a little over £80 for two plus drinks – not cheap exactly but not outrageous either considering the quality of the venue and the food.

The only spoiler was nothing to do with the restaurant itself – we spent longer sitting in traffic jams both on the way into the city centre and the way home than we did in Browns. Which is not ideal for anyone, whether businesses or customers.

Scores

Food 9

Service 9

Atmosphere 8

Value 8