I went for food for the first time at Cosy Club following the glamorous Leeds bar's major refurbishment

So a good deal of credit is instantly granted to Cosy Club for the remarkable shake up they’ve given to their sublimely-located Albion Street venue, which has bravely sacrificed the previous style of abundance for something more spacious, elegant and classy.

After being closed for six weeks through the summer the bar and restaurant, which sits proudly aloft the busy street and boasts an enviable balcony vista, has embraced a tasteful 70s aesthetic that complements the excellent menu no end.

After ascending the mirror-strewn staircase the venue opens up impeccably and you’re greeted by staff who are delightfully enthusiastic and effortlessly efficient. A special mention goes to our waitress, who not only gave great recommendations but also named one of the fish in the juggernaut of a tank in the centre of the room after us. You don’t get that service in the McDonald’s.

After being seated in a cosy corner and ordering a couple of Negroni’s, which seemed too fitting to resist, we perused the newly introduced menu for the autumn and winter seasons, which has a bold quality that draws on a rich variety of culinary regions.

But from our choices the individual quality can’t be questioned.

To start with we shared the pulled beef and bacon croquettes which married the luscious texture of cheese and Spanish flavours with the sharp crunch of the breaded coating, while also going for the halloumi and honey which was assuredly enjoyable.

We ordered a couple of glasses of Tempranillo red wine, which added a bold richness to accompany our mains, which were as good as you could hope from an national chain restaurant.

I treated myself to a 100Z rib-eye which was exactly that - a treat for all the senses.

The 28-day dry-aged gorgeous slab of meat was delicately charred but also, critically, wondrously succulent throughout, with the shallot and mustard butter coating and peppercorn sauce, which had a slight tang, complimenting it terrifically. My dish was also served with a gem salad with a Caesar dressing and parmesan fries, which, it should be expected by now, were perfectly agreeable.

My guest, meanwhile, went for a Cosy Smash Burger, which looked truly sumptuous with its serving of dipping gravy on the side. While we had hardly the chance to share tasting notes while wolfed down our meals, he assured me afterwards that it was “dead good”.

With a Leeds International Festival of Ideas event to get to afterwards we quickly settled up, with the bill totalling a quite staggering £117.21. But is anyone surprised by the expense of eating out anymore?

With major sites the across the country, my first experience of Cosy Club couldn’t have gone much better and I can imagine, quite confidently, that its addictive quality and atmosphere stretches into the evening.

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Factfile

Address: 53 Albion St, Leeds LS1 5AA

Opening hours: Sun-Wed, 9am-11pm; Thurs, 9am-12am; Fri-Sat, 9am-1am

Website: https://cosyclub.co.uk/location/leeds

Scores

Food: 9/10

Service: 10/10

Value: 7/10

Atmosphere: 9/10