Friends of Ham review: A Leeds deli worth returning to time and again
Summer has slipped away and the cooler weather has shifted my priorities.
No longer am I chasing the perfect pint in a sun-soaked beer garden – instead I’m seeking out hearty food and a warm, welcoming space. Friends of Ham, on New Station Street, proved the perfect answer to my autumn cravings.
This Leeds favourite is somewhere I return to time and again, so it feels right to finally share my admiration with YEP readers.
Step through the doors and you’ll find two very different atmospheres. Upstairs is bright and airy, the bar drawing focus while pale wood tables quickly fill with chatter. It has the bustle of a continental café, casual yet confident. But for me, the real gem is the basement.
Moody and low-lit, it has the feel of a speakeasy – all dark corners and intimate charm. If you’re planning a romantic dinner or a proper catch-up with friends, book ahead and make sure it’s down there.
Drinks come first, of course. Craft beers dominate the list, joined by an excellent orange wine that quickly became a favourite at my table. There’s also a short but smart selection of bottles for those who prefer the classics.
Nothing feels showy or overcomplicated – the drinks list, like the food, is thoughtful and deliberate. “Intentional” is the word that sums Friends of Ham up.
That thoughtfulness shows most clearly in the charcuterie. Diners can build their own boards or lean on the menu’s pre-planned combinations. The latter are a safe bet for newcomers, guiding you through the wealth of choice without overwhelm. But for the confident – or the picky – creating your own board is the way to go.
Every visit I come back to one thing: Lardo di Colonnata. Described on the menu as “fat from the back layered with bay, rosemary, garlic and spices then aged for 10 months in Italian marble,” I call it something else – salty, fatty heaven. Pearly white, impossibly thin, and packed with flavour, it’s an unlikely star even for someone like me who usually steers clear of fatty cuts. Trust me: order it.
Our table of four also tackled a generous spread of snacks and cheeses. Devilled duck eggs proved a particular hit, while the Baron Bigod Brie delivered a pungent kick often missing from softer bries. Cheese lovers won’t go wrong here, whatever they choose.
From the seasonal specials, one dish stood out. The warm saffron potato salad, tossed with herbs and a golden saffron dressing, was a revelation – autumn on a plate. If Friends of Ham are listening: please keep this one year-round. The olive tapenade, meanwhile, was punchy and pleasing, if slightly overshadowed by the hot dishes served alongside it.
Friends of Ham isn’t about fuss or frills. It’s about generosity, quality, and flavour delivered in a setting that feels both stylish and relaxed. If you haven’t been yet, make a booking. Cold evenings demand comfort, and few places in Leeds deliver it better.
Factfile
- Address: 4-8 New Station St, Leeds LS1 5DL
- Telephone: 0113 242 0275
- Opening hours: Mon-Thurs, 11am-11pm; Fri-Sat, 11am-midnight; Sun, 11am-10pm
- Website: https://friendsofham.com/
- Food: 10/10
- Value: 8/10
- Atmosphere: 8/10
- Service: 8/10