I skipped the England match for Chinese tapas at this Leeds restaurant - and it was a winner

The first England game of this World Cup is on the telly, but you can’t work up the enthusiasm to watch at home and you don’t fancy going to the pub and risk getting covered in beer in case they score.

So the obvious thing to do is to go out for a Chinese meal instead, right?

Eager to escape the replica shirt-clad hoards, my guest and I headed to Man’s Market to sidestep any ‘Ingerland’ hysteria that might be knocking around in Leeds.

It was a wise move. The restaurant is downstairs but this is no dingy basement; bright and bold, it’s inspired by the Hong Kong street food scene. At the top of the stairs, there are neon signs and quirky pictures; downstairs, fairy lights and lanterns abound in a decor of red and gold.

Despite it being a nondescript Wednesday when the national team are playing, there’s a decent crowd enjoying the excellent playlist – sitting down to the Stereophonics is an excellent start. Our lovely server explains that when we’re ready to order drinks, we simply attach a sign saying ‘I’m thirsty’ to the large clip above our table and someone will appear to take our order.

Likewise when we’ve finished perusing the (comprehensive) menu, we write our dishes on another board and the order will be taken.

No hanging around staring meaningfully at servers’ backs or sighing as we’ve been forgotten – it’s fun yet efficient at the same time.

Speaking of the menu – there’s vegan, gluten free, mates and dates, kids, halal, a banquet… we opt for Chinese tapas as after a generous glass of rose negotiating the vast a la carte options seems daunting.

The dishes all double up as individual starters but we opt for a couple each plus sides.

My guest went for spare ribs in an opulent, glossy barbecue sauce with sesame and hot honey – perfect with a plentiful helping of salt and pepper chicken.

My salt and pepper tofu with a bang bang mayo was absolutely spot on – it’s a huge portion and comes with a generous helping of fresh red chilli and veg too.

Please don’t ask me to pick a favourite between that and the firecracker cauli wings – tempura cauliflower with more chillies, chives and sesame seeds. It was a hot, crispy, spicy piece of heaven.

Sides of broccoli with chilli and garlic, salt and pepper chips and a spicy Singapore rice elevated a few ‘picky bits’ to a glorious meal for two.

What we couldn’t finish was parcelled up to take home, which meant not a scrap was wasted and it felt like decent value at just over £80 for both of us, especially when you factor in drinks and a vast tray of prawn crackers.

Definitely a better choice than staying home with a four-pack of cooking lager watching 22 millionaires kick a bag of wind around.

Fact file

Address: Unit F, West Point, Wellington Street

Tel: 0113 244 0808

Open: Tues-Thurs noon-10pm; Fri-Sat noon-11pm, Sun noon-9pm

Scores

Food: 9/10

Atmosphere: 10/10

Service: 9/10

Value: 7/10