I tried this popular tapas restaurant in Leeds - and one dish stole the show
Our reviewer was impressed with the comprehensive vegetarian selection
Experience has shown that one sign you’re in a good Spanish restaurant is a good offering of sherry.
Can someone even pretend to know about the cuisine of Spain without at least a working knowledge of one of its most profoundly important ingredients?
Fortunately, at Ambiente, the maitre d not only knew the 30-plus vintages on offer but was able to recommend a really lovely amontillado, explaining the differences across the impressive range available without pretension. It was a good start.
Having been swiftly furnished with a generous measure of our chosen apéritif with a dish of plump Perelló Gordal olives, we set about perusing the impressive tapas menu.
For a Wednesday evening, there was a pleasant buzz about the place, with couples, friends and groups all enjoying the sangria, food and relaxed ambience.
The menu suggests three dishes each and maybe another to share, which seemed like a fair recommendation.
At this point, vegetarians might be looking at the tortilla, patatas bravas and maybe something with vegetables if they’re lucky.
But not at Ambiente. Not only is there a comprehensive vegetarian selection, there are two chef’s recommendations plus three vegan specials to try, including a plant-based calamari, meatballs and chorizo.
I opted for chorizo y patatas veganos – caramelised chorizo-style pieces and potato – in a rich, deep sauce. And it was divine. I can’t tell you if it’s anything like regular chorizo, having not eaten meat for a good 30 years or more, but according to my guest it did a passable impression of the original.
Clearly some form of cheese needed to be present (it’s a bit of an obsession in all honesty) in the form of queso feta al horno – baked chilli and honey feta with a rocket and hazelnut salad. Oh my life, it was superb, the crispy hazelnuts the perfect foil for the soft, lightly salty feta.
It would have been rude not to try one of the recommended dishes, and zanahorias asadas – grilled carrots with a chilli and cumin yoghurt – promptly stole the show. Who knew carrots could taste like that?
Our server explained they are dry fried first to lock in the natural juices – the staff clearly know not just their onions but the other veg as well.
My guest teamed the ‘regular’ meat equivalent of the chorizo dish with judías verdes (pan-fried green beans with sun-dried tomato and pine nuts) and sizzling gambas pil pil – king prawns in garlic and chilli infused olive oil.
Turns out the judias verdes were our sharing dish – that worked out very nicely.
Again, our server seemed almost psychic, arriving with a basket of bread towards the end of the meal so we could mop up the sauces. And you really wouldn’t want to miss a morsel.
I’m not a huge fan of dessert but the crema catalana seemed like a great way to round off the meal – light, sweet and perfectly crisp on top. Blame ordering a dessert on the sherry.
Our meal came to just over £70 but the cost will depend on what you order and how many dishes. For us, it felt like decent value for the quality of the food and the swish service.
Fact file
Address: 36-38 The Calls, Leeds
Telephone: 0113 246 1848
Open daily from noon-10pm
Scores
Food: 9
Service: 10
Atmosphere: 9
Value: 9