India Bistro Leeds review: I tried Chapel Allerton’s much-hyped new Indian restaurant

Like many other residents, I watched with curiosity as the interior was ripped out, windows replaced and eventually signs for ‘India Bistro’ appeared above the door. There was soon a buzz in the community as news spread that this UAE-based restaurant group had picked our little Leeds suburb to open its first UK restaurant. I was itching to put it to the test when it opened last month.

Walking in, the transformation is striking; the decor is absolutely beautiful. Soft lighting, warm tones and a rich array of textures - blending contemporary interior design with Indian prints and artwork that add character. The restaurant wouldn’t feel out of place at a high-end hotel.

I was warmly greeted and offered a seat at the bar while I waited for my friend to arrive, giving me the chance to browse the impressive cocktail menu - from the Goan-inspired Basco De Guava with tequila, guava, curry leaves and tabasco, to the rum-based Golden Pind with citrus, yoghurt and mango lassi foam.

The wine list is equally as diverse, and I opted for a glass of the Man Meets Mountain Malbec - a beautifully fruity Argentinian red.

Once we were seated, our server - though a little nervous - was polite and attentive. The menu takes inspiration from across India and small plates include the restaurant’s signature potato, onion or okra bhajiyas, while the grill section features dishes such as lamb seekh, tandoori seabream and a vegetarian mixed grill.

There’s a choice of 12 mains and vegetarians are well catered for. I ordered the paneer tikka biryani, a carom seed paratha and a side of cucumber raita. My friend went for the saag ‘veg of the day’ - ‘garden-picked’ Indian greens, hand-pounded and spiced - with a tandoori roti.

The biryani was well-cooked and had a nice kick to it, with aromatic flavours and juicy pieces of pepper and onion. Unfortunately, the ‘paneer tikka’ fell flat - it was bland and needed more time in the tandoor for the promised chargrilled flavour.

The raita was well seasoned and refreshing, but the large chunks of skin-on cucumber scattered on top were unusual. Traditionally, it’s grated for a smoother finish.

My friend’s saag arrived with the unexpected addition of paneer and was topped with crispy onions to add texture. While pleasant and spicy, as she’d ordered, it was under-seasoned enough that she had to ask for salt.

The biggest disappointment came with the laccha paratha. A personal favourite I grew up eating, these should be defined by distinct, flaky layers. Instead, it had caught underneath, was bone dry and lacked lamination. Having enjoyed beautiful, buttery parathas at Uyare just days before, it didn’t help that I had a direct comparison. My friend’s tandoori roti was also overcooked.

It wasn’t a total misfire, but with prices of most dishes above its neighbours and such a beautiful restaurant, our expectations were high. While the setting is stunning, the food didn’t yet match the elegance of its surroundings.

That said, given the restaurant’s recent opening, the Christmas rush and the limited range of dishes we tried, we haven’t entirely ruled out a return. We’re just hoping India Bistro can prove that it’s not just style over substance.

Factfile

Address: 33-39 Harrogate Road, Chapel Allerton, Leeds, LS7 3PD

Telephone: 0113 340 0236

Opening hours: Mon-Fri, 5pm-10.30pm; Sat, 12.30pm-10.30pm; Sun, 12.30pm-10pm

Website: www.indiabistro.co.uk

Scores

Food: 5/10

Value: 4/10

Atmosphere: 9/10

Service: 7/10