'It always starts with the Reliance': Meet the chef behind Leeds' new The Smithfield gastropub

The Smithfield has big boots to fill. As one of Leeds’ newer gastropubs, it opened in April 2026 on North Street - just on the outskirts of the city centre.

Its red facade and floor-to-ceiling windows are a familiar sight to many in Leeds who remember The Reliance, the institution that called this corner of the city home for more than 20 years.

But the idea was never to reinvent the wheel, says co-founder and head chef James Donovan. The Smithfield acts more as a spiritual successor to the famous venue.

"It always starts with the Reliance,” he told the Yorkshire Evening Post. “It was this absolutely wonderful, well-loved Leeds institution in a fantastic building.”

“Rather than trying to build anything new, we're looking to build on the legacy created by the Reliance,” he continued.

“What we're going for is a warm, welcoming community pub that's open to everybody, with a dining room that serves simple, good-quality, elevated comfort food."

A collaboration between Donovan and York-based brewers Crooked Brewing, The Smithfield is a stylish gastropub with a welcoming bar and an inviting dining room with a view of the kitchen.

The collaboration was sparked when Crooked Brewing spotted that the old Reliance building was empty after the closure of Three’s a Crowd and, after being introduced by mutual acquaintances, invited Donovan to help bring it back to life.

"It was Steve from Crooked Brewing who identified the opportunity, because they were looking to move into Leeds,” he explained.

“I'm relatively new to Leeds myself - I’d just moved here and was freelancing - and as soon as I heard ‘The Reliance’ I was on board."

Donovan has previously worked at Rochelle Canteen, The Mowbray and Native, bringing experience from some well-regarded kitchens to his first venture in Leeds.

His cooking focuses on local, seasonal produce, with veggies from Meanwood Urban Farm and meat from well-sourced farms in North Yorkshire.

Dishes such as the pig's head croquettes exemplify The Smithfield's commitment to nose-to-tail cooking, a homage to St John in London.

Donovan describes his food as simple, seasonal British-European cooking driven by whatever his suppliers have at their best each week.

“We've got some lovely suppliers, and at the beginning of the week we speak to them, see what they've got available, and start from there," he said.

"We get a lot of our vegetables from Meanwood Farm, which is a really nice social enterprise and community project.

“The produce we get from there lasts better, it's more robust, and it's really nice to be able to support a local community project."

As for meat, it’s about using the whole animal.

"Pig's head is delicious, and there are certain offal cuts that are underused,” Donovan explained.

“We use a lot of tongue, pigs' heads and things like that, and it's delicious - meaty and gelatinous.

“We prepare them down into these croquettes, which have become a bit of a signature. We use interesting bits - tongues, livers, hearts - alongside less challenging things like cod and sirloin."

The name Smithfield also has historical significance.

After researching the neighbourhood’s past, Donovan landed on “Smithfield” - a reference to the former Smithfield Cattle Market at what is now Lovell Park, and a subtle nod to the nose-to-tail traditions he admires.

The Leeds Smithfield Cattle Market stood on the site from the 19th century, with the market hosting livestock sales as well as fairs and other events. The cattle market later moved to Gelderd Road, with the former site eventually becoming Lovell Park.

Donovan believes Leeds is in the middle of a dining boom, crediting fellow operators with building an audience that is increasingly eager to eat out and explore new places.

"Leeds is booming at the moment,” he said. “Places like Bavette, Empire [Cafe], the Highland Laddie and Swine [Bistro] have, over the last few years, created this market for people.

“It seems like people are really enjoying embracing the culture and dining out a lot more, and the range and quality of places opening has expanded - long may it continue."

"I'm so full of love for Leeds,” he added. “Considering I've been here such a short time, we've been welcomed by the community and by the service industry community, and by the response we've had here, especially given that we're taking over this really iconic institution."

So whether you’re tempted by the pig’s head croquettes, the sharer pies, or a whole grilled seabass, The Smithfield's menu reflects Donovan's focus on seasonal produce, nose-to-tail cooking and straightforward, comforting food.