The Highland Laddie: I tried the food at this exceptional Leeds pub that is full of traditional character

The Highland Laddie was refurbished and reopened earlier this year to much fanfare and received heaps of praise from a flurry of esteemed voices - and the hype is very much justified.

But anyone expecting another glamorous modern throw up with half an eye on social media engagement will be grossly mistaken - or, more likely, pleasantly surprised - as The Highland Laddie’s refreshing charm comes from its inherent and distinct, determined pub-ness.

Absent are any hints of forced affectation and instead the pub is imbued with a natural and reassuring character that stretches to all aspects and serves as a remarkable testament to the sadly waning allure of the Great British pub.

Brought back to life by the team behind Empire Cafe, we went on Wednesday night and found not only is its sheer quality hard to believe, but it is situated in such a way that makes one start to doubt that it even exists.

Nestled away among soulless high rise flats and overgrown shrubbery, the Victorian red brick building appears like an apparition and its tastefully crafted interior only further adds to the sense that you’ve stepped into another time and place.

Split into two equally homely rooms, we settled on a Guinness from the 1960s hand pump and a bottle of Belgian non-alcoholic beer from the carefully chosen selection of drinks that had clearly appealed to the packed bar area of varied figures.

We were then shown to the dining area that is a little too compact for large parties, but couldn’t be better suited for a catch up or a date.

And the food from the menu that is full of inventive takes on pub classics has an enticing appeal for multiple visits.

In respect of my oyster-loving companion and former colleague we went for three of the much-lauded molluscs that are shucked and prepared at the end of the bar before being served on a startling bed of ice. Fresh as the Scottish shores they were sourced from, the accompanying garnishes of a pearl-like pickled onion and Highland hot sauce add another layer of staunch character.

The lobster madeleine was a subtle but striking affair, with the freshly baked sponge cake offering another comforting aroma to the mix of log fire and light ale and and the rich chorizo butter it was served with being dangerously indulgent.

It set us up splendidly for the main dishes, which both took the experience to new heights.

The sliced ham from the fire was oozing with delicate flavour and tied in resoundingly with the lightly charred dinner roll and wholegrain mustard, which we picked from a mustard menu no less.

My choice was the keema shepherds pie, served with poppadom mash and carrot pickle, which encapsulated the whole experience by being as reassuringly familiar as though it were made by family and yet unique enough to feel exceptional. The Indian hints abounded throughout and though it was one of the more expensive choices on the menu, it’s assured quality made every bite worth savouring.

The bill, including a tip for the collective of informed and respectable staff, came to £70, which seems fairly reasonable by today’s standards for such a flawless showing.

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Factfile

Address: The Highland Laddie, 38 Cavendish St, Leeds LS3 1LY

Opening hours: Mon-Tues, Closed; Weds-Thurs, noon-11pm; Fri-Sat, noon-11am-12am; Sun, noon-10pm.

Website: https://www.highlandladdie.com/

Scores

Food: 10/10

Service: 10/10

Value: 8/10

Atmosphere: 9/10