I'm a Lancashire lass visiting lovely Leeds for work and here are my seven highlights and a low point

More than 540 years after the War of the Roses, Lancashire lass Nicola Adam ventured outside the Red Rose county to discover the White Rose city of Leeds. Here’s her highlights and a low point.

My passport was stamped and I boarded the train across the border from Lancashire to West Yorkshire for work and discover lovely Leeds - and I was not disappointed.

My first take, however, was that two counties may only be divided by the Pennines and approximately 60 miles but it was soon clear it’s not that easy to get to and from. It took just under two hours (one hour 53 minutes - Northern) for my rambling train to make its way from Preston to Leeds via every station it can find from Blackburn to Pudsey. For context, this is more or less the same time it takes to get from Preston to London. At one point the train even travels into a station (Halifax) then reverses out again so picking a forward-facing seat is somewhat pointless.

Admittedly, the views are lovely, taking in in the rambling hills and soaring views littered with sheep and adorable historic railway stations straight off the set of a Sally Wainwright drama (literally - see Hebden Bridge in Riot Women). But the duration of the train journey (it takes approx. one hour 30 in the car) may explain why Red Rose county residents do not routinely visit Leeds as a shopping destination. This is a shame as it’s fantastic.

There is history everywhere and real warmth, that in my opinion, you only get in these northern cities. It’s an absolute no-brainer for eating out with so many restaurants and coffee shops - you can people watch endlessly.

Here are my seven highlights:

Victoria Quarterplaceholder image
Victoria Quarter | James Hardisty

Home of the first ever Harvey Nicks outside London, Leeds take its shopping seriously and rivals Manchester easily from its selections of stores from high end to budget and everything in between. What’s particularly appealing is being able to easily walk around the city centre, with regular coffee or wine pitstops on offer. I wandered up the main shopping street Briggate and into the beautiful and ornate County Arcade, part of the city’s Victoria quarter which is made up of series of historic buildings. Built in 1897 and Grade 2-listed, the County Arcade is the sort of place you miss out on if you don’t look up as the architecture is stunning. The Victoria Quarter is home to a variety of higher end and more accessible stores and worth a wander even if your budget is (like mine) more Primark than Prada. Stores nestled amid the arcades include everything from All Saints to Boodles, Thomas Sabo to Cambridge Satchel Company and , of course, Harvey Nichols.

We stopped here for a weekday work lunch, found a table easily and then had indecision crisis due to all the tasty temptation on offer. This all-day food and drink hall featuring independent food businesses is based in the historic White Cloth Hall which was built in 1775. It features four kitchens, craft beer and cask ale bar, and a wine bar. Options range from Salma Modern Mexican, Morty’s Focacceria, Lupton’s Chop House, Charcuterie & Cheese, RAKKU East Asian Kitchen and White Cloth Wine. It’s the perfect place for a solo bite or group outing where everyone wants something different.

A hop and a skip from the city centre, we dropped in here post-office after a bracing walk watching swans and ogling boats along the canal. You can watch the working waterfront (and other people managing the locks) while enjoying a coffee at an outside table. We also tried some Italian food at the atmospheric LIVIN’Italy, which is a restaurant and deli under the railway arches. You can enter either from Water Lane, Holbeck, over the bridge and down the steps around Candle Houseg or over the new footbridge approach from Neville Street .

 LIVIN' Italy in Granary Wharf, Leeds (Photo by Bruce Rollinson/National World)placeholder image
LIVIN' Italy in Granary Wharf, Leeds (Photo by Bruce Rollinson/National World) | Bruce Rollinson

4. City Square

Yes, it’s just a public square and the first thing you see after walking out of the front of Leeds Railway station, but City Square has recently been renovated and pedestrianised making it the perfect spot for a coffee to go on a sunny day. You can also look up at a number of statues and monuments including the Black Prince on horseback, a bronze rendition of the medieval Prince Edward plus no less than eight nymphs. The square is ringed by historic buildings including the Old Post Office, dating back to 1936, and the 1930s architecture of The Queen’s Hotel. To east of the square is Mill Hill Chapel, a landmark Gothic-style chapel that dates back to 1848. Another activity is to sit and stare at the railway station, which has been undergoing endless renovation works. The square looks also fabulous at Christmas, I’m told.

The Black Prince silhouetted against the Queens Hotel and the City Square Christmas Tree.placeholder image
The Black Prince silhouetted against the Queens Hotel and the City Square Christmas Tree. | Bruce Rollinson

5. Leeds Railway Station

OK, this has essentially been a building site forever but work is gradually getting there and a butterfly is slowly emerging from the chrysalis. But Leeds station has always been a good one and not just because its a critical hub on the British rail network and is second busiest in the north after Manchester Piccadilly. It is very interesting historically. Opened in 1854, it is partially built on a bridge over the River Aire and the arches underneath are called the ‘Dark Arches’ - which should be the name of a crime drama if not already. I walked through this section of the station ( admittedly I was lost) on a rainy day and saw the flooded river roaring through so it’s quite the experience. Leeds Station also boasts a decent collection of shops and food outlets which blow Preston Station out of the water (not literally).

6. Leeds Liverpool Canal

The 200-year-old canal flows straight through the city centre of Leeds on its way from Liverpool and is a little oasis. It’s actually longest single canal in Britain, stretching 127 miles and is perfect for like walking, boating, and cycling, while also showcasing remnants of its industrial past. It’s perfect for wandering, chatting and staring at small but perfectly canal boats, selfies, and not forgetting feeding the ducks - though the swans are a little feisty. The Canal and River Trust have a suggested 4km wellbeing walk - check it out HERE

7. Sociable Folk (Cafe Bar, Wellington Place)

We ventured here for lunch during a day of meetings and there was a queue out of the door. Hardly surprising as its wide selection of freshly made breakfast, brunch and light fare make an excellent alternative to a meal deal and you even get served with a smile. There’s tables or you can eat out. It’s first come first served and features fabulous wraps, bagels and flatbreads plus curries, falafel and noodles. You can also build your own superfood salad.

In conclusion, Leeds is great and the only low point for Lancastrians is getting there.

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