The Orchid review: What makes this Pan-Asian restaurant a local institution after quarter century of success

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My Experience: Enjoying an exceptional meal at The Orchid restaurant, Harrogate. By Graham Chalmers

There aren’t too many restaurants in Harrogate that can, legitimately, be labelled an “institution” without provoking some sort of minor 'hoo ha'.

Changing times and changing tastes tend to take their toll on the best of them, even in a food lover's town like Harrogate

Graham Chalmersplaceholder image
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Only a small handful of Harrogate’s restaurants have made the distance in the first quarter of the 21st century.

Sitting proudly among that select few is The Orchid.

This year sees this elegant and hospitable specialist in pan Asian cuisine celebrate 25 years since it first opened its doors, making its own bit of history in a part of town steeped in Harrogate’s heritage.

Located in the Studley Hotel on Swan Road, The Orchid faces Mercer Gallery (1806), is only a few yards from both the Royal Pump Rooms (1842) and the Old Swan Hotel (1777) and lies in the tree-lined shadow of the Valley Gardens (1858).

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I’ve been to The Orchid many times over the years with friends and family, for major occasions and casual nights out with plenty of laughter and the occasional tear and always had a great time.

No wonder this bastion of high quality still has many customers who can say "I was there the day The Orchid first opened in 2001".

The menu has evolved constantly over the years, as The Orchid responds to its customers preferences, but its high standards have remained constant.

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Such is its long-standing, close rapport with its clientele, The Orchid is about to launch garlic and onion free menus, a rarity in the world of pan Asian cuisine.

The decor has changed occasionally, too, and for the better, it now oozes a pitch-perfect sense of style in each of its many different dining rooms.

But what makes The Orchid the sort of place you want to come back to stays the same.

My latest visit involves lunch on the terrace in a sunny breeze under blue skies.

In theory I am here to sample the Express Lunch menu, two courses for a remarkably reasonable £18.90.

There is a problem, however.

If the layout out of The Orchid offers diners a huge range of rooms to suit any occasion, the menu – or menus – cover everything anyone with a true love of Asian cuisine in all its many different flavours and nationalities could ever hope for.

I decide to go “off piste”, partly because I know it's safe to do so.

No matter which direction you take at The Orchid, there is always a delight just round the corner.

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Dishes from Thailand, Vietnam, Singapore, Hong Kong and China arrive freshly cooked with no skimping on the ingredients or portion sizes.

From Chao Tom Prawns to Chicken Money Bags, Crispy Lemon Chicken to Ma La Beef salad, everything is fresh and delicious

There are no half measures and no shortcuts.

Nothing is left to chance at The Orchid.

It all feels friendly and relaxed and unpressured thanks to the attitude of the caring and experienced team at The Orchid.

But the attention to detail is there the entire time, effective but un-showy.

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The Plaa Choo Chee, fried seabass fillets with a richly spiced curry made from Thai herbs, shredded lime leaves and coconut cream, is to die for.

Even the desserts shine, the Mango Panna Cotta a gloriously tasty wobbly triumph, as someone on BBC’s Masterchef might say.

We’re not living in a world where we can rely on much but The Orchid’s loyal regulars, as well as generations of visitors and tourists, know they can rely on this one thing, this singular place.

It makes the 25th anniversary of The Orchid something truly to celebrate.

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To help everyone do just that, the restaurant, in conjunction with the Harrogate Advertiser, is offering a whole 20% off The Orchid's a la carte menu, Mondays to Thursdays, for the whole of June.

In these toughest of times for the hospitality sector, there aren’t many restaurants still trying to do what The Orchid does, never mind pulling it off with such quiet aplomb.

Throughout my lunch, the staff act like a team, rather than a collection of individuals.

That, more than anything, explains why The Orchid belongs to Harrogate, why it is still an institution 25 years on.

The Orchid Restaurant can be found at the Studley Hotel, 28 Swan Rd, Harrogate. Click here to find out more.

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