It took me 55 years to discover Northern Ireland - I can't believe what I've been missing
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World-class golf, standout hotels, excellent food and a warm welcome at every turn: four days in Northern Ireland left me wondering why it had taken me 55 years to visit.
How have I reached the age of 55 without discovering the treasures of Northern Ireland?
Despite being less than an hour's flight from many UK airports, I've only just found out what I've been missing: world-class golf, standout hotels, excellent food and that inimitable green landscape.
Besides being close to home and benefiting from two airports, the country packs an extraordinary amount into a relatively small area, making it easy to combine very different experiences in one trip without spending hours on the road.
I spent four days in Templepatrick, Galgorm and Belfast on a trip built around golf’s Northern Ireland Legends Tour, including the chance to play in the Pro-Am at Galgorm. Teamed with Scottish professional David Drysdale, who spent more than two decades on the European Tour, I had one of the best days of golf in my decade of playing the game.
Quite what David made of being teamed with a 21-handicapper is perhaps best left between him and his caddie - who also happened to be his wife! I consoled myself with the thought that what I lacked in skill, I made up for in enthusiasm.
Galgorm’s Championship Castle course is a must for any golfer heading to Northern Ireland. The 18-hole, par-72 parkland course is laid out through mature woodland in the grounds of the historic Galgorm Castle estate. With the rivers Maine and Braid coming into play and immaculate fairways and greens, it's a privilege to play.
Sharing the course with some of the biggest names in senior golf added another dimension to the day. US Open champion Michael Campbell, Ryder Cup players David Howell and Stephen Gallacher, Steven Alker and defending champion Markus Brier were among those out in our Tour Scramble round. It's not often you spot a Major winner or Ryder Cup star on a neighbouring fairway, and there are moments from that day that will always stay with me.
You can't visit Northern Ireland without playing Holywood Golf Club, where Rory McIlroy first learned the game and developed the talent that would take him to the very top of world golf. This is one seriously challenging course and the back nine, in particular, with dramatic elevated tees and sloping fairways, is a real test.
The clubhouse is packed with Rory memorabilia, from photographs and trophiesm alongside reminders of his journey from young Holywood member to one of the biggest names in the sport. Last year's Lady Captain, Ruth Watt, beamed as she recalled leading the celebrations when their famous son won the 2025 Masters to complete his career Grand Slam.
Our Northern Ireland stay also took us to Fortwilliam, another beautifully maintained course with captivating views across Belfast Lough, with Cave Hill rising behind it. Head Professional Ricky Duckett has been at the club for 30 years this year and knows every inch of this par-70 parkland course, where narrow, tree-lined fairways and tricky greens keep you on your toes.
At just over 6,000 yards from the back tees, Fortwilliam isn't particularly long, but that doesn't make it easy. I loved the 11th, a downhill dogleg with fabulous views across Belfast Lough. It's one of those holes where you have to remind yourself to concentrate on the golf rather than the view, although a distant ferry made a rather handy and unique aiming point from the tee!
Whether you're in Northern Ireland for the golf or not, you're totally spoiled for choice when it comes to places to stay. We spent our first night at DoubleTree by Hilton in Templepatrick, a large resort just minutes from Belfast International, with everything you could want from a hotel, including a pool and spa. I spent the afternoon on the 18-hole parkland golf course, the perfect warm-up round ahead of my Galgorm Pro-Am.
My huge suite was comfortable and well equipped - but best of all offered expansive views of the golf course. The food here was also superb. Tomato and lentil soup followed by chicken carbonara were full of flavour and exactly what was needed after an early flight and 18 holes.
If you're staying in central Belfast, head for the five-star Grand Central Hotel, particularly the Observatory on the 23rd floor, where you can look out across Belfast and beyond while enjoying a cocktail.
The views weren't the only surprise. Stranger Things have happened but we bumped into actor Charlie Heaton from the cult TV series as we got out of the lift. I tried really hard not to stare but suspect I wasn’t very cool about it. Apparently Joe Biden and Olly Murs are among the other well-known faces to have stayed at this contemporary, luxury hotel.
My Skyview Executive room on the 18th floor came with great views across the city and easily one of the comfiest beds I've ever slept in. Floor-to-ceiling windows make the most of the location and if you love luxury products, you'll find ESPA goodies galore in the bathroom. It's an ideal base for exploring Belfast, with many of the city's main sights, restaurants and bars within easy reach.
Foodies must try Beau, a relaxed restaurant on Wellington Place that's earned a place in the Michelin Guide. We ordered six or seven small plates which arrived gradually throughout the evening instead of in traditional courses, giving us plenty of time to enjoy each one.
Standout dishes included guanciale-spiced pork belly with cured egg yolk, Kilkeel crab with heirloom tomato consommé, and a superb Hereford ribeye. Chloe, our server, was a terrific host, talking us through the menu and keeping everything flowing at just the right pace.
Our non-golfing highlight was the Titanic Experience, a respectful and compelling tribute to the ship, the people who built her and those on board. Built on the site where Titanic was designed and constructed, the exhibition takes you from Belfast's booming shipbuilding industry through her creation and launch to the maiden voyage and devastating end.
The Shipyard Ride carries you through a recreation of the Harland & Wolff shipyard and gives a sense of the scale, noise and sheer physical effort involved in building Titanic.
Making the short trip to George Best Belfast City Airport as we headed home, it struck me that the common thread running through our stay was the people. Everywhere we went, the warmth of the welcome was genuine, from golf club members delighted to share their courses with us to hotel and restaurant staff determined that we should love their home as much as they do.
Northern Ireland’s tourism message is all about GIANT experiences, and our stay certainly lived up to the billing. Four days was enough to make me wonder why I'd left it until my mid-50s to discover Northern Ireland. On the upside, a quick check tells me there are 90 golf courses to explore in the region. So it seems I've barely scratched the surface - just another 86 to go...
Northern Ireland Factbox
*A night at the DoubleTree by Hilton Belfast Templepatrick costs from £129.
*A night at the Grand Central Hotel, Belfast, which is part of the Hastings Collection, costs from £160 a night, including a full Irish breakfast.
*Entry to the Titanic Experience costs £24.95 for an adult.
*I flew from Birmingham Airport with easyJet and used Enterprise car hire at Belfast International Airport. I flew home from Belfast City Airport.
*Ready to explore Northern Ireland? Find everything you need at Ireland.com/golf